The last time I made up my mind to do the Vaishno Devi trek, it rained. We had motorcycled down from Jammu and just after entering the first station, it started raining. Taking it to be a message from the gods that they did not want to see us, we reversed direction, wet like dogs. It rained all the way back to Jammu \u2013 and the 25 bucks plastic bag raincoats did little to help. The experience kept me away from Deviji in spite of the fact that I visit Jammu at least thrice a year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But this time, the elder daughter wanted to do the adventure \u2013 and insisted that I and her mother chaperone her. Taking the signals from the Devis to be positive this time, we set out post lunch for Katra in the school van. The constraint was that we had to be back by 0800 hrs the next morning for the van to make its usual rounds to pick up students. I added another constraint \u2013 wanted to catch up on some sleep before I dropped the van back. So the idea was to make it a quicky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We reached Katra at 1730 hrs \u2013 and overshot the ticket counter where you get passes for entry. Went back the 2 km and not finding any suitable parking slots entered the taxi reserve parking. The advantage of having a white maruti van is that it is a favorite for taxi operators. No one objected, so we proceeded to hire an auto to take us to Banganga, the last point where IC engine operated vehicles are allowed to enter. En route we hired shoes for the Missus, who had not packed footwear which was appropriate for the trek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Missus\u2019 cousin in Chandigarh had boasted about how he had reached the top in 3.5 hours. So that was the target that we had set ourselves. Travelling light is important \u2013 as we saw a lot of people rolling up strollies, lugging 10 kg bags \u2013 probably stuffed with bedding for the night stay outdoors. We were determined to bed it back to the hotel. The advice given was to avoid the stairs \u2013 and it was sound advice. Ramps are anytime more comfortable to climb than stairs \u2013 one can check that out at any railway station. On the occasion that the missus decided to climb the shorter ways on the stairs, we managed to more than catch up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
One baggage that you cannot reduce is the one that you lug around your waist and hips. That was the one that set us back. Frequent stops were made for the rear of the party to join the lead pack. But the rule was clear \u2013 no stopping unless it is really required. On the journey up we managed with 2 stops \u2013 one to drink iced tea and the other to have Masala dosa. Btw, would recommend the Masala dosa, it is the high-point of the journey. You will find the outlet \u2013 run by SMVD \u2013 on the new road to Bhawan (the place where the main cave is located). This road starts at the half-way mark \u2013 and is a very enjoyable road. The good parts \u2013 absence of two major pests that torment the trekker \u2013 horses and shopkeepers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
On the subject of horses \u2013 we saw quite a few of the retired varieties roaming around the roads of Katra \u2013 left no doubt by their previous owners \u2013 to graze on the munificence of the tourists who dot the town. Most of the horses seemed to be fit, as were the owners, who accompanied them. The general strategy to accelerate the 1 HP vehicle used to be a kick on the butt, with the brake applied by pulling the tail. I imagined that there would not be so many of them on the night shift \u2013 but my imagination proved to be imaginary. We saw quite a few of them on our way down as well. One can imagine the roads of our cities a century and a half ago when you do the Vaishno Devi climb. On most of the road, one lane is reserved for ponies. And the smell of their proficient output adds to the flavour of the food that is served alongside. To be honest you have SMVD employees who are regularly cleaning the stuff from the road, but the aroma persists.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A good option to the horses are the electric ones which are available on the new road. These are Mahindra Bijlees \u2013 and short of walking \u2013 are the most VFM transport. They charge 500 for a round trip \u2013 300 on the way up and 200 on the way down. Maintenance seems to be an issue though \u2013 one could see about 30-40 of them in the garage at base camp. The next best VFM option is the helicopter ride \u2013 which takes about 10 minute \u2013 and costs 800 one way. The ponies come next at 2000. And the most luxury ride is the one in palkis \u2013 you have 4 porters who put you in a chair and take you up literally on their shoulders. Adequate practice I must say for the final journey that all of us will again make on four shoulders. This comes at 4000 for the round trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We reached Bhawan at 2103 hours. Having started from Banganga at 1745 hrs \u2013 the travel time was about 3 hours 18 minutes. Hey Jagdeep (missus\u2019 cousin in Chandigarh) \u2013 we just bested your record. Next time target is going to be 3 hours for the 11 km climb. And next time we should start earlier. We had been advised to start climbing at 1900 hrs. But I think we need to start around 1700 hrs. You get to enjoy the view on the way to the top \u2013 seeing Katra town and glimpses of Jammu also. Of course the views start only after the first 4 km. Till then it is blocked by the continous shops on both sides of the path. On the return journey you get to see the night scenery. No stars \u2013 because the ambient lighting is very high \u2013 but I suspect that we saw a long string of lights \u2013 which could have been the Indo-Pak border which is lit up every night. (on a slight off-track \u2013 imagine all that electricity being used to light up houses in rural India which suffer from power cuts most days)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
On reaching Bhawan, we were advised to deposit all our material possessions in the cloakroom. At the cloakroom they were choke full. So the security guard advised one of us to do a spiritual darshan \u2013 sitting at the entrance with the material world surrounding \u2013 whilst two would go ahead. Signal from the Devi again. So yours truly had a power nap \u2013 whilst the missus and the daughter went inside to pray for whatever material objects they desired in life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The climb down was shorter \u2013 we reached in 2 hours 30 minutes. The stairs helped \u2013 but in hindsight would not recommend them. There is one final staircase with 589 steps at the end. The lighting was not good \u2013 a lot of the shop keeper had also shut down their shops post midnight. So one kind of took one step at a time \u2013 feeling very much like a 60 year old arthritic. Next time will take the ramp on the way down. I kind of like the long-cuts in life. The journey is after all the destination..<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"